Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum

When I was in grade school, on the first day of class the nuns would give us a writing assignment – “What I did on my summer vacation.” I’m a few years late, but here’s my report.

A few things about me first. I’m a planner. For months before a vacation I am doing research, both in print travel guides and online. I then make reservations for every night. I even pretty much know where I’m going to eat. It’s fun for me to plan.
I have always liked to think of myself as spontaneous and open to ideas. Don’t get me wrong, I have been known to change my plans if the circumstances dictate. But usually I don’t.

The second thing is I like travelling by myself because selfishly I don’t have to worry about making sure that someone else is enjoying themselves.

I also like road trips. Even on long hauls, since I spent many years at radio stations, I enjoy listening to radio as a diversion. When I know my route, I go to www.radio-locator.com and print out the radio stations in each town on the route.

This year I started to make a list in a notebook before I headed out each day of what I wanted to listen to so it was handy while driving. I also plotted my routes in that same notebook.

Some years I have stayed in one place for a few days. My favorites are Clearwater Beach, FL, Hilton Head Island (and Bluffton and Beaufort), SC and St. Simons Island, GA. That’s a pretty clear indication that I like the beach.

This year’s trip evolved from the desire to fulfill one item on my bucket list – The Grand Ole Opry in Nashville. I started my career in radio doing a country morning show on the old WKIK-AM in the late 60’s. I used to listen to the Opry on Saturday night on WSM on my transistor radio.

Nashville, TN

Nashville is too far to drive in one day so I left after work on July 2nd and stayed in Staunton, VA (about four hours away). The next morning I hopped on Interstate 81 and pointed for Music City. It was a miserable day, with heavy rain off and on all the way. But East Tennessee in particular is scenic with rolling hills, when I could see them through the downpours. One advantage heading west was I crossed a time zone at one point so I got into Nashville before dinner.

If you want to do the country music thing I highly recommend you stay in the area known as Music Valley, which includes Gaylord Opryland Hotel and the Grand Ole Opry. I couldn’t get a room at Opryland so booked the Fairfield Inn and Suites about a mile from the Opry. It was a perfect choice and the tour bus (Gray Line) for downtown picked me up right at the motel front door.

To see the Country Music Hall of Fame and the Ryman Auditorium, I also highly recommend using the tour bus. Nashville is pretty congested and difficult to navigate and besides you don’t have to worry about parking at each stop. And crowds were streaming into town for a free Fourth of July concert and fireworks display downtown.

The rain held off on the morning of July 4th for the bus tour. First stop was Ryman Auditorium, known as the Mother Church of Country Music. Built in 1892 as Union Gospel Tabernacle, its most famous run was as the home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943 to 1974. It has been restored and the Opry still is performed there in the winter during maintenance on the new venue.

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is a must see. I was there many years ago when it was much smaller and in a different location. The timeline of the genre is detailed there from roots in the Appalachian Mountains, Mississippi Delta, The Bluegrass of Kentucky, the Wild West of the movies and the Texas Hill Country.

Some people new to popular country music will find the videos of some of the early stars fascinating. On the opposite end of the spectrum, a current exhibit talks about the fusing of rock and country with an exhibit of when Bob Dylan and Johnny Cash performed together.

The museum also has an exhibit of the times in the past when country has become more pop oriented and crossed over into other Top 40 charts, such as adult contemporary.

I was especially intrigued by the exhibit of playbill posters that lined one whole wall. If you are interested in posters make sure you put the Hatch Print Shop in downtown Nashville on your tour schedule.

But, the real highlight for me was the Hall of Fame itself, which is a cavernous, high-ceiling, circular room with all of the plaques from the performers’ induction ceremonies. Above the plaques are the words, “Will the Circle be Unbroken.” That’s the title of a 1972 album by the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band that brought together some of the genre’s legends from the past under the idea that while the performers may have changed, country music remains the same. Country still remains the one true mass appeal music that hasn’t split into subsets.

That theme was carried on when the Grand Ole Opry moved from the Ryman to the new Opry House. A circle was cut from the middle of the Ryman stage and imbedded into the floor of the new stage. Ten years ago, the nearby Cumberland River flooded, inundating the Opry Hall. It was restored, including that circle from the floor of Ryman.

The Grand Ole Opry wasn’t exactly what I expected. I thought it would be a more modern facility. Instead it’s more like a larger version of the Ryman, with a second-floor balcony and wooden church pews. Interestingly, the new location has been the home of the Opry now for a longer period of time than the Ryman or several other locations since its start in 1925.

The new building sits next to the parking lot of the Opry Mills Mall, a great diversion for those in your group who may not want to take the downtown tour. Parking is thus free and easy, although I highly recommend going online and securing tickets that way, but then that’s just the planner in me. The night I was there (July 4th) the house wasn’t completely full.

The Grand Ole Opry is still also a live radio show (celebrating its 80th anniversary; the longest continuous radio show in history) on WSM (650 AM) so that in itself is interesting to observe, with breaks for an announcer to read live commercials. While in Nashville listen to the station; they play great classic country music.

The night I was there was probably pretty typical, except for the absence of at least one modern country star. The show breaks down into segments, with separate hosts. That night legendary performer Connie Smith, Whisperin’ Bill Anderson and Vince Gill were the hosts and also performed. The hit of the evening was equally legendary Jan Howard reading a letter from her son right before he was killed in Vietnam. On that July 4th it received a standing ovation

Some of the younger, lesser known performers (none of which I had ever heard) were equally enjoyable, and included Danielle Arthur and Sierra Hall. Also a band I hadn’t heard in a long time –Riders in the Sky – put on an especially enjoyable set.

One option in attending the Grand Ole Opry is a backstage tour, which I opted not to take. I left the building to be greeted by a torrential deluge so I decided not to drive to another part of town for Prince’s Hot Chicken, a delicacy only found in Nashville. Instead I ate in the mall. See, I can change my plans.

Mississippi

Early Sunday morning, with it still raining, I left Nashville on Interstate 65. By the time I got to the southern tier counties in Tennessee the skies had opened up for a more pleasant trip. The towns along the way weren’t particularly interesting. When I got though Savannah, TN, I swung south through the Shiloh Civil War battlefield. I didn’t stop because walking around battlefields looking at monuments doesn’t particularly appeal to me.

I entered Mississippi at Corinth, which has its own battlefield. I stopped for lunch and the place I was looking from the AAA Tour Book was closed for repairs so I chose a café up the street that looked busy. It was there that I had my first “meat and three’ of the trip. This is entirely a southern thing where you get a meat and three sides for lunch. It’s a great way to sample some southern staples, such as fried green tomatoes, fried okra and collard greens.

As I was paying my bill the cashier asked me where I was from and why I was in Corinth. Not sure exactly why I stood out like a sore thumb, but I told him I was just passing through and did just that.

I stayed on Route 45 south and bypassed what should be a must see stop for anyone traveling through north Mississippi – Tupelo and Elvis Pressley’s birthplace. I had been there once before and it was fascinating. The home is tiny. Especially interesting is the church that was moved to the site to show what it would have been like for Elvis as a child to be exposed to gospel music, an early influence on his style.

I forged on through Columbus, MS which I had also stayed at before (for a couple of days during their spring home pilgrimage). This is an insanely beautiful town with many well-preserved antebellum mansions.

My original intent was to stay there again but I discovered in my online research an interesting alternative. About 60 miles south, just outside the town of Louisville (pronounced Lewisville) is a man-made lake and resort called Lake Tiak O’Khata, which I think is Indian for Lake in the Pines. The resort is an amazing bargain — $75 for a motel right across from the swimming beach or just a little over $100 for a cabin.

This proved to be a great sight-unseen decision. I spent a very relaxing day hanging out at the beach, which is especially good for kids because it has water slides and a float in the middle of the lake. It was noisy with all the kids but there are some serene spots for solitude around the lake, with plenty of places to park yourself and relax.

The resort has all of the amenities, including a good restaurant, which is essential because there isn’t much to do in Louisville. The resort also has a gift shop, ice cream stand, and beachside snack bar.

Louisiana

After a relaxing two nights and one full day I left Lake Tiak O’Khata headed south through the heart of Mississippi. I first went through Philadelphia, which is infamous for being the place where three Civil Rights activists were murdered (the movie Mississippi Burning was based on the incident) and now is more well-known for being the home of two Indian casinos.

I also went through Canton which would look familiar to many, particularly its town square, because it has been the site of the filming of many movies, including “A Time to Kill” and “My Dog Skip.” They have a movie museum there.

I hooked up with I-20 west of Jackson and crossed the Mississippi at Vicksburg, which reminds me of a slight digression. When I’m traveling, I always pick up a copy of the local newspaper. Even though the print industry is fading, there still is a lot to be learned from local papers. One such is the Jackson Clarion-Ledger which circulates throughout the state. They were one of the leaders in the Civil Rights era and still are strong today.

While I was traveling the controversy about the Confederate flag was the hot issue everywhere in the south. There was a story in the Clarion-Ledger about the Mississippi flag which emulates the Confederate flag. Vicksburg National Military Park’s superintendent was quoted as saying it wasn’t an issue for him because the Confederate battle flag that is so hated by many never flew over the area around the battlefield. He said the Confederate battle flag was mostly from the armies farther north. Interesting!

I hit Louisiana about the time that summer arrived with a vengeance, with temperatures in the 90s that felt like way over a hundred. I was glad I was buzzing along in my air conditioned car. I made a stop at the neat little college town of Ruston to sample the fare at a famous regional fast food chain – Whataburger. I had read they were one of the ten best regional chains in the country. It was quite good but not any better than our Roy Rogers or Checkers. I also stopped at a Krystal several days later. They remind me of the old Little Tavern joints when I was growing up in DC.

The trip through the heart of Louisiana was uneventful. I had chosen to say one night in Natchitoches (pronounced NAK-a-tish) and one night in New Iberia. Both are famous in literature and the big screen. Natchitoches was where the book and then the movie “Steel Magnolias” takes place. It is a beautiful old town with an interesting downtown of businesses with balconies overhanging the sidewalks. It sits alongside the Cane River with a peaceful linear park abutting it.

New Iberia is the home of the main character in a series of books by James Lee Burke – Dave Robicheaux, who is a fictional cop in that very real town. Some of the regular locales from the book, such as Victor’s Cafeteria, can be viewed on a Dave Robicheaux tour provided at the visitor’s center.

I also toured Shadows on the Teche in New Iberia. It was built 1834 and what is unique about it is that it remained in the same family and undisturbed for its entire existence until it was donated to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. It was probably the best historic home tour I have ever taken.

On my way into New Iberia I stopped in St. Martinville. The town was the location for Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s epic poem “Evangeline, A Tale of Acadie.” There is an interesting African-American museum next to the impressive Evangeline Oak on the banks of Bayou Teche. .

My two days in Louisiana were interesting but I have to say the Cajun meals I had were somewhat disappointing. I’ve had better Cajun food back here. I think it was because my planning had led me to the tourist places when I would have been better off asking around for the local hangouts.

Alabama

Next part of the trip took me on I-10 around Baton Rouge, across the Mississippi Gulf Coast and into Mobile. Once through Mobile (which is a beautiful place, but I didn’t stop because I have been there before), I turned south down what is called the Eastern Shore (of Mobile Bay). There I stopped briefly at the drop-dead gorgeous town of Fairhope. It has a beautiful waterfront and pier which I walked out on. I would like to spend more time there sometime in the future.

My destination was Magnolia Springs Bed and Breakfast in the tiny town of the same name. This stop was one of the highlights of my trip. Take a look at the pictures because words can hardly describe the beauty of the street that runs in front of the inn, with its overhanging, moss-covered live oaks.

The inn started its life in 1897 at the Sunnyside Hotel and exactly 100 years later was purchased by David Worthington and Eric Bigelow. Eric is the greeter and the breakfast chef. David is the handyman. They run a very tight ship. Eric’s breakfasts, I can honestly say, were the best meals of my trip.

One morning I walked around town and then had the massive porch all to myself for reading and just enjoying the view.

The inn is only a few miles from the Alabama gulf coast, so I spent an afternoon on the beach, relaxing and almost forgetting that the vacation was coming to an end.

Georgia

From Magnolia Springs I went east though Pensacola, FL and hooked up again with I-10 for the long haul across the Florida panhandle. I pulled into Brunswick, GA around 6 p.m., just giving me time to get over to St. Simons Island for dinner and to wander around its “village” where a summer concert was taking place on the waterfront.

This area of coastal Georgia, known as the Golden Isles, in my way of thinking is a must see destination. Unfortunately a lot of people speed by the area on I-95 on the way to and from Florida (about 40 miles south) and miss out on a lot.
I probably will be going there on one of my next vacations so I’ll check in with a more detailed report at that time.

I know I have left out a lot of details since the trip included so many stops, so if any of you readers what additional information, just email me and I’ll get back to you.

In the meantime, hit the road and drive safely.

Contact Dick Myers at dick.myers@thebaynet.com